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Thread: Oil Changing Place In Front Of Staples

  1. #41

    Default skills

    same level of skills... Hmm, ok I'd like to see a garbage man set camshaft timing on an engine, or adjust valve lash, because just watching them move the #1 piston to top dead center would be comical. lol.

    hey Swerve, your 911 requires valve lash adjustment every 15000 miles, unless it has the 993 engine, those are hydraulically adjusted and never need attention, however I think yours is the newer engine if its an 2006 model.... If you hear the valve getting noisey they are getting loose, if you dont hear any noise, they are getting tight, and when valves are tight they tend to burn an exhaust valve which gets very costly to fix, call the garbage man for help. same level of skills, I heard.

    thanks.

  2. #42

    Default

    What's comical is that you are now reaching out to Swerv, offering best buddy advice when you bashed that person for asking an honest question to start this thread. The only reason I got involved is the fact that I can't stand gutless punks who try to bully, especially those who attempt to bully from behind a monitor.

    Textbook behavior. Put a bully in his place and he walks around with his head between his legs. And spare me your attempt to sound like an automotive expert. Big deal, everything you spewed is common knowledge from a Road and Track magazine, contrary to what you thnk your "automotive certificate" makes you. Have you read the magazine at the dentist's office recently? Oh that's right, you were an automotive "technician", you don't have dental insurance.

    And, for the record, moving #1 to TDC is a cakewalk, nothing major there. Additionally, just because there is no tap after 15K miles with solid buckets doesn't mean the exhaust valves are burning out. However, If they do need shimming it's best to take it to a pro as the tool alone is 300 bucks, not to mention the adjustment chips. In the unlikely chance you do run a burnt valve, make sure they check the valve guides while the head is off, this model uses brass guides that wear easily. Have all the valves and valve seats reground and have the head surface ground, not milled, to obtain the proper RMS for seal. Also have them throw a mike on the cylinder to check out-of-roundness, at the mileage listed in the thread there shouldn't be much wear, should there be, these engines have sleeves (liners) that can be changed, the only issue is greasing the O-ring to make sure it doesn't break on install.

    Bottom line, Tom70zhisBrother, just because you know a little bit about something and you may have turned a wrench, it doesn't give you the right to belittle anyone who asks a friendly question (and I don't know who Swervy is).

    I'm not a present day mechanic nor do I pretend to be one, I've turned a wrench back in the day and damn sure will offer any advice if someone asks.

    Try it sometime, or continue your punk behavior, I'll shut you down again.

    Have a nice day.

  3. #43

    Default whatever

    nice try GiveHeadin2Stew,

    wow I'm very impressed with your attempt here. Its was a valiant effort, but your half right, if theres no noise the valves may still be within spec but they will have to be checked. And he cant get that done at the corner jiffylube or the garbageman.

    Special tools? How about a feeler gauge, they work fine. I dont work on this stuff anymore but it was fun at the time. My ASE certified master mechanic status has expired, thank god for that. I was basically trying to tell you that anyone who owns one of these nightmares to maintain will have to take it to the dealer, unless they are well-enough versed to attempt to removed the cam covers and check it themselves, if were talking about shim-under-bucket adjustment, then the cams have to come out to change the shims, good luck with that.

    surely there is not any wear on the valve guides at miles below 100,000 to be concerned, but just DONT let the valves get TIGHT, is all I am saying.

    I'm so glad I dont live in Stewartsville, I can see nothing has changed.






    Quote Originally Posted by Headin2Stew View Post
    What's comical is that you are now reaching out to Swerv, offering best buddy advice when you bashed that person for asking an honest question to start this thread. The only reason I got involved is the fact that I can't stand gutless punks who try to bully, especially those who attempt to bully from behind a monitor.

    Textbook behavior. Put a bully in his place and he walks around with his head between his legs. And spare me your attempt to sound like an automotive expert. Big deal, everything you spewed is common knowledge from a Road and Track magazine, contrary to what you thnk your "automotive certificate" makes you. Have you read the magazine at the dentist's office recently? Oh that's right, you were an automotive "technician", you don't have dental insurance.

    And, for the record, moving #1 to TDC is a cakewalk, nothing major there. Additionally, just because there is no tap after 15K miles with solid buckets doesn't mean the exhaust valves are burning out. However, If they do need shimming it's best to take it to a pro as the tool alone is 300 bucks, not to mention the adjustment chips. In the unlikely chance you do run a burnt valve, make sure they check the valve guides while the head is off, this model uses brass guides that wear easily. Have all the valves and valve seats reground and have the head surface ground, not milled, to obtain the proper RMS for seal. Also have them throw a mike on the cylinder to check out-of-roundness, at the mileage listed in the thread there shouldn't be much wear, should there be, these engines have sleeves (liners) that can be changed, the only issue is greasing the O-ring to make sure it doesn't break on install.

    Bottom line, Tom70zhisBrother, just because you know a little bit about something and you may have turned a wrench, it doesn't give you the right to belittle anyone who asks a friendly question (and I don't know who Swervy is).

    I'm not a present day mechanic nor do I pretend to be one, I've turned a wrench back in the day and damn sure will offer any advice if someone asks.

    Try it sometime, or continue your punk behavior, I'll shut you down again.

    Have a nice day.

  4. #44

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Headin2Stew View Post
    What's comical is that you are now reaching out to Swerv, offering best buddy advice when you bashed that person for asking an honest question to start this thread. The only reason I got involved is the fact that I can't stand gutless punks who try to bully, especially those who attempt to bully from behind a monitor.

    Textbook behavior. Put a bully in his place and he walks around with his head between his legs. And spare me your attempt to sound like an automotive expert. Big deal, everything you spewed is common knowledge from a Road and Track magazine, contrary to what you thnk your "automotive certificate" makes you. Have you read the magazine at the dentist's office recently? Oh that's right, you were an automotive "technician", you don't have dental insurance.

    And, for the record, moving #1 to TDC is a cakewalk, nothing major there. Additionally, just because there is no tap after 15K miles with solid buckets doesn't mean the exhaust valves are burning out. However, If they do need shimming it's best to take it to a pro as the tool alone is 300 bucks, not to mention the adjustment chips. In the unlikely chance you do run a burnt valve, make sure they check the valve guides while the head is off, this model uses brass guides that wear easily. Have all the valves and valve seats reground and have the head surface ground, not milled, to obtain the proper RMS for seal. Also have them throw a mike on the cylinder to check out-of-roundness, at the mileage listed in the thread there shouldn't be much wear, should there be, these engines have sleeves (liners) that can be changed, the only issue is greasing the O-ring to make sure it doesn't break on install.

    Bottom line, Tom70zhisBrother, just because you know a little bit about something and you may have turned a wrench, it doesn't give you the right to belittle anyone who asks a friendly question (and I don't know who Swervy is).

    I'm not a present day mechanic nor do I pretend to be one, I've turned a wrench back in the day and damn sure will offer any advice if someone asks.

    Try it sometime, or continue your punk behavior, I'll shut you down again.

    Have a nice day.

    I think the truly sad part is that he's not actually trying to be helpful. I just think he likes pointing out all the ways my car will cost me money to maintain as if I already didn't know that going into the car purchase and as if I didn't already budget out maintenance costs into my spending for the car. He also doesn't believe when I do those costs that I should attempt to find the best available price for the work. Then I'm chastized for not being able to do it myself, but when I said I would fix my refrigerator by myself I was chastized for not just paying the repairman. (FYI: my fridge is working perfectly with the work I performed myself.) I could go into the laundry list of things that I know more than him about, but unlike him I don't feel that proves anything other than I have probably spent more time than him studying that particular set of information. I also certainly don't expect people to be of the same opinion as me, but that certainly shouldn't result in insulting someone else. Oh well, you'll always have trolls who only get satisfaction from putting people down online. There's a great email that went around that send arguing online is like the special olympics, even if you win you're still retarded. I guess we know who takes the gold medal.

  5. #45

    Default

    Tommy70,

    Quote Originally Posted by tom69z View Post
    nice try GiveHeadin2Stew
    LOL, I must admit, that is a pretty funny take on my screen name. I can take my lumps as much as I can give it out.

    I made my point with this and it's gotten old. I'm moving on to other topics. I'll see you around...

    BTW, with what I give according to your quote, was your wife walking around relaxed today?


  6. #46

    Default

    In case anyone was interested, just used Spoilers today to get the oil changed in my car. I have to say their service was excellent and their price extremely reasonable. They took care of my car with kid gloves and when I refused the car wash on my car, they gave me a raincheck to use on any car I would like. I would recommend them to anyone and I would definitely use them again.

  7. #47
    Hike4Life Guest

    Default

    Old topic, but that's okay.

    Swurv, it's good to hear you had a decent experience at Spoilers. I've been wondering about that place. I generally take my older car to Valvoline, but they're pushy SOBs with all of their extra services... The fact that I'm a woman doesn't help, because they assume I'm an idiot.

    How long did you wait at Spoilers for your oil change?

  8. #48

    Default

    Hike4Life

    They definitely did not try to push any of their services on me but I'm not sure if they would treat a woman differently. I probably would not use them as mechanics but I think they're perfect for oil changes. I will also be using them to put new tires on my car and they were extremely accommodating with that as well. I needed to order 4 new tires special order from tirerack.com and the two front tires were on back order. They were willing to accept the two different delivery dates for the tires and store the ones that arrived first for me. The woman I spoke to on the phone, Linda, was really nice. Not sure what their past practice was but their customer service on my two experiences was fantastic. Now, I'm not sure if that was tainted because I drive or Porsche or not. I would hope not. I say give them a try.

    At the least you can just pull in and ask as many questions as you want and make an informed decision afterwards. I was able to do that and figure out what everything would cost me before the work started.

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